Patchwork of Rajasthan - Tradition of India

India, the land of diverse cultures, of diverse customs and regions, of diverse languages and habits, and of diverse arts and crafts, yet united together by a single bond, its cultural richness, its art and craft, known to the world since ages. Patchwork, a relative of the rich handicraft and art of India.


Also known as piecing, patchwork involves joining together pieces of fabric into a larger design. Patches of various shapes and colors lead to the making of a larger design, usually based on repeat patterns. Patchwork, one of the primary construction techniques of quilting, is often combined with color. Basic geometric shapes are usually used in the making of most of the patch work items which need exact joining so that it lies without wrinkle.

Patch work in India is mainly associated with the western states of Gujarat and Rajasthan, though Punjab and Orissa also practices this craft. Various colored and patterned fabrics of different shapes and sizes are together on a plain background. An important feature characterizing Indian patchwork is that the stitches of the patches are not hidden but are done with jazzy shades which get highlighted, adding a more artistic appeal.


Making its way to India from Europe and Arabia, patchwork in an important craft in the country now, creating a unique art making dramatic use of color. Gujarati patchwork items are the most well known ones. Highly ornamented with motifs, the magical spell of patch work items lies in the outline of each individual. Glaring motifs of trees, birds and animals in bold colors can be seen in each patchwork item – shaped patches sewn unto cotton cloth.

From patchwork quilts and bed covers to patchwork wall hangings, runners and cushion covers, the range of patchwork items is a great one. When used in the making of a quilt, the large colorful composite patchwork becomes the top of a three layered quilt, the middle layer being the batting and

the bottom layer the backing. The patchwork quilts are tinged with warmth and color, an artistic appeal sprinkled all through. A patchwork quilt is a respite from the staid conventional ones.

Holi celebration in Rajasthan

The colourful state of Rajasthan plays Holi much the same way as Mathura. A night before the full moon, crowds of people gather together and light huge bonfires to burn the residual dried leaves and twigs of the winter. People throw coloured water and powders (gulal and kumkum) at each other and make merry. Singing, dancing and the traditional beats of dhol add to the gaiety of the occasion.

Holi is celebrated with pomp and ceremony and more so with a regal air befitting the royal history of Rajasthan. Elephants are bedecked to the hilt with ornate jewellery, jhools (saddles) and vibrant colours.  Female elephants are decorated with huge anklets that tinkle as they walk down the alleys of the city in a procession that also features bedecked camels and horses. The procession is accompanied by folk dancers that entertain onlookers with their traditional dances. Holi is celebrated in a unique way wherein people sitting on the elephants sprinkle gulaal on the bystanders. Elephant dances, elephant polo and tug-of-wars add an interesting twist to this already unique celebration of Holi. However, in recent times, The Elephant Festival has come in jeopardy due to animal-rights groups protesting against the same.

Folk Traditions in Rajasthan

Mali Holi :                                                           
The colourful festival of Holi is played in many different ways. The 'mali' or gardener community of Rajasthan has a unique style where the men colour the women with water and women retaliate by hitting them with sticks or long pieces of cloth
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Gair at Godaji:                                                    Men from 12 villages collect at Godaji village near Ajmer in Rajasthan to play gair a few days after holi. Each village brings his own drummer and gair troupes. The picturesque location for it is a valley surrounded by hills on all sides. Thousands of onlookers and close to hundred players make a wonderful sight and a fond memory.

Dolchi Holi at Bikaner:                                                                                                                          

In Bikaner district, members of 'Harsh' and 'Vyas' communities have been celebrating Holi by throwing water at one another with force for the past more than 300 years. A specially designed vessel called 'dolchi' made from camel skin is used for the purpose. But the water is thrown only at the back of an individual.

Tribal celebrations in Banswara                                                                                                 Banswara, a small town near Udaipur in Rajasthan, is a tribal stronghold and an erstwhile princely state. The Holi celebrations here are a unique display of the culture and traditions of the Bhil tribe. On this day the Bhils, dressed in all their festive finery, perform the beautiful Ghair traditional dance around a huge bonfire. 

Jaipur Literature Festival

From a low beginnings in 2006, the Jaipur Literature Festival has emerged as the largest literature festival in Asia-Pacific. More than 100,000 people attend hundreds of sessions over the Festival's five day duration. The Festival takes place in late January each year.

Jaipur Literature Festival is an annual literary festival which takes place in the Indian city of Jaipur each January. It was founded in 2006, and from 2008 has been produced by Teamwork Arts. 2016 is the ninth edition of the ZEE Jaipur Literature Festival. The world's largest free literature Festival,it was described by Miranda Seymour in the Mail as "the grandest literary Festival of them all".

Both Indian authors as well as foreign appear at the Festival. The sessions contains readings, discussions, and questions and answers. It's possible to buy the authors' books and get them signed. In addition, there's a range of stalls selling everything from food to handicrafts.

There's also an outdoor lounge bar, for relaxing. Music performances are held in the evenings, after the literary sessions are over. In recent years, the Festival has turned into quite a fashionable occasion, and attracts plenty of socialites from Delhi and Jaipur.

Jaipur BookMark, a platform for publishing professionals from India and around the world, was launched in 2014 and runs alongside the Festival at the Narain Niwas hotel. An important new focus this year is on translations and rights.

As a part of ZEE JLF’s ongoing partnership with Rajasthan Tourism, two evening events have been organised at the Amber Fort and the Albert Museum.

If you are an art and literature lover then this festival is a must visit for you.

Bandhej work of Rajasthan and Gujrat

Foundation
Bandhani is a type of tie-dye textile decorated primarily by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings that form a figurative design. It is practiced mainly in states of Rajasthan, Gujarat and parts of Uttar Pradesh. The word Bandhani is derived from a Sanskrit word Banda which means “to tie”. Bandhani an art that involves dyeing a fabric tied tightly to a thread at different points, resulting a variety of  patterns.
The main colours used in Bandhani are natural. As Bandhani is a tie and dye process, dying is done by hand and hence best colours and combinations are possible in Bandhanis.
 

Background
Bandhej is the elderly form of tie & die art which started around 5000 years back. As per the historical data, the first Bandhani saree was worn at the time of Bana Bhatt`s Harshacharita in a royal marriage. One of it’s earliest visible depiction can be seen in the Ajanta caves. In India, Bandhani work was started by the Khatri fraternity of Gujarat. Places in Rajasthan like,JaipurSikar, Udaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, and Jamnagar in Gujarat are the well known centers manufacturing odhnis,sarees and turbans in Bandhani.  It is an elderly form of art which is still in rehearsed.
 

Expertise

The art of Bandhani is as interesting as it’s past. The fabric that is dyed is tied very tightly at different points in knots and then dyed with remarkable colors. When this tied cloth goes for dyeing, these threads or knots doesn’t get rid that part catch color & allows it to stay white or whatever color the cloth has. Once the cloth is dyed, it is left for drying in open air.  Drying will take some time according to the weather conditions. In monsoon it takes about 2 days to dry while in summer it takes only 4-5 hours. In winter it takes around 6-7 hours for drying.

Style & Variety

Bandhani comes in different colors, designs & patterns and these variations are region specific. The colors that are most prominently used in Bandhani are yellow, red, green, blue and black. After the procedure is over, Bandhani work outcomes into a different kind of symbols including dots, waves, strips and squares. The patterns include Leheriya, Mothra, Ekdali and Shikari depending on the manner in which the cloth has been tied. The attires comprise Khombi, Patori, Gharchola and Chandrokhani. Bandhej work can be seen on Sarees, Kurtas, Salwar kameez, and Chaniya cholis. The designs contains Ekdali (single knot), Trikunti (three knots), Chaubandi (four knots), Dungar Shahi (mountain pattern), Boond (small dot with a dark center), Kodi (teardrop shaped) and Laddu Jalebi (Indian sweets). Different colors transmit different meanings in Bandhani.

Attire

Many wear bandhej salwaar kameej on daily purpose. Sarees with Leheriya patterns are usually worn for day functions whereas Ghatchola lehengas & sarees are worn for night occasion. Bandhej dupattas with plain white Salwar Kameez are very demanding between young girls. Working women also wear bandhej sarees for a perfect style statement, yet it looks simple.

Global Appeal

Bandhani is frankly an art and it’s a common vision to see not only women wearing outfits of Bandhej but  also the men can be found wearing turbans with Bandhej design. The main market is in Gujarat but it is very much sold all over India as the demand has increased over the last few decades. The sales increases during the wedding and festive seasons. Mostly, it is used as odhnis by the ladies on festivals.

Preservation

The influence of Bandhani is lost if ironed with a high heat setting, therefore, it is suggested to get your Bandhej costume dry-cleaned and if needed , ironed with a low heat setting.

The Tradition Of Kite Festival

The tradition of flying kites in India and abroad is quite ancient. From the very beginning human,  looking at the birds flying in the sky, had imagination of flying himself. There are many traditions in countries around the world for kite flying.

According to Greek historians, kite flying is 2500 years old. History of kite flying in China has been considered two thousand years old . China's general Han Xin made kites of several colors and sent flying kites message to his troops. The world's historians consider the birth of kites was in China.
             

In India, in the Indus culture between 2750 and 3500 BC we can find pictures and hieroglyphs of kites. Development of kites started in Europe and also in countries like USA, England, Hong Kong, Japan, Italy, Australia etc. and production of kites began rapidly. People started flying kites in the form of garuda, snake, parrot, fish, crocodiles,etc. 

Makar Sankranti is celebrated in many parts of  India . It is a folk festival. Now a days nylon, polythene, plastics etc. are also used to make kites along with the paper, wicker and fabrics, Kite thread is layered with glass, glue, paint, etc. Bareilly, Kanpur, Lucknow, Gwalior, etc. are very famous manufacturers of kite thread. Thread of Rajasthan is also famous.

In States like Gujarat, Maharashtra, Rajasthan, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Delhi, Uttar Pradesh, Punjab, a special time is fixed for kite flying. Kites are known by different names in different regions. Jaipur city is famous for kite flying not only in India but also in the whole world. It's very beautiful to look at the sky on the day of Makar Sankranti. Different kite flying experts from various countries visit the kite festival of Rajasthan. Since decades the International Kite Festival is celebrated every year in Jaipur  and Pushkar.

There is a passion for kite flying and the childrens, old,and young celebrate this festival equally.
The festival is not complete without the cheerful shoutings like "wo kata", "wo mara", to express the express the joy. 

Rajasthan is unarguably the most colorful place in India and a thrilling land of brave and courteousness. It features unbeatable forts, magnificent palaces and waves of sand dunes and peaceful lakes. The entire state is identified by an unusual variety in all its aspects, be it people, culture, customs, costumes, cuisine,language and music. The same goes with the arts & crafts of Rajasthan as well. Since this land has an infinity of metals, stones and wooden items, the Rajasthani handicrafts are some of the finest works of art and portray the creative and supreme craftsmanship of the artists of this state.

This land is known for a range of adorning techniques such as inlay, metal casting, carving, appliqué, etc. Some of the famous handicrafts works include:

Blue Pottery: 
This art form was first introduced in Rajasthan by Maharaja Ram Singhji and borrowed from Persia. The color combinations used in this technique are also peculiar such as blue (oxide of cobalt), Green (oxide of copper) and white.

The traditional floral or arabesque hand made designs and the animal figure patterns are the major ones. The various articles prepared out of this art include items like ashtray, tiles, flower pots, lamp shades and jars.

Metal Craft: 
This craft occupies a major position among the Rajasthani handicrafts and enameled silver which is used from pill-boxes to figurines. For the table-tops, dancing peacocks, caparisoned elephants, dancing camels, swords and shields, brass enamel is used which is less expensive and more widespread. Wrought iron has also gained popularity in the metal craft works.

Wooden Artifacts:
Furniture is among the most common and popular handicrafts of the state with its contemporary variants that include chairs with painted backs, camel-hide stools, marble-top tables and carved cabinets. Wooden animals are also included among these artifacts and include a variety of animals like horses, elephants, parrots- that are beautifully painted in vibrant colors.

Stone Carving: 
You will get to see amazing statues, idols, figurines, carved panels, even intricate jharokhas for gardens and pavilions that are shaped out of white marble, pink Dholpur, green Kota, white and grey soapstone. The elaborate carvings clearly manifest the genius of the craftsmen of the region.

Paintings: 
The custom of painting dates back to the dawn of civilization and you will find the intricate motifs in the geometrical and natural designs that are done on clay vessels and potteries that were revealed in the pre-historic Harappan sites of Kalibangan and Peelibanga in Rajasthan’s north-western region. Rajasthan is quite popular for its miniature paintings and mirrors an unbelievable portfolio of scenes that depict the tales of the myth and legend.

Explore the true essence of Rajasthan through the Rajasthan handicrafts tour in which you will come across a number of outstanding handicraft articles that would make for some of the best souvenirs for the souvenir hunters. 

Applique of Rajasthan

Applique in Rajasthan is done with embroidery to give a magical style of decoration. This is done on almost all things such as clothes, bed sheets, lampshades and wall hangings. The Applique work can also be seen in daily use items also like bags and tablemats. It is also done on blouses, petticoats, gowns and other garments. The base fabric is medium weighted and primarily white in colour. Patchwork motifs of various sizes, shapes and colours are arranged in a manner that produces captivating patterns.

Applique
Applique is a decorative artwork, in which one cloth is sewn or fixed onto another or a cloth is decorated by glass pieces, metals, wood or metal wires. The art of applique is regarded as one of the traditional artwork of ancient Muslims in India. It is said that ‘Applique’ work came into India in the 19th Century either from Europe or Arabia in the Middle East through trade contacts. Applying fabric on fabric with the edges sewn down by thread and needle does this art of Applique. This is mainly practiced in Rajasthan and Odisha.

Types of Applique in Rajasthan
The two notable Applique works of Rajasthan are ‘Gota’ and ‘Kinari’ work. These ‘Gota’ and ‘Kinari’ are golden and silver coloured pieces and laces those are sewn on the cloth. Here in Gota work, the embroidery is made on a velvet cloth, which gives it a unique look. The Gota work uses the ‘Applique’ works in both the classical and folk designs. The Gota work is mainly done on the costumes for women. Khandela in Shekhawati mainly prepares these items. Preparing geometrical models from square shaped coloured textile pieces in which dark earthy colours are used generally makes Applique. This is mainly done on quilts, known as ‘Rallis of Jaisalmer’.

The ‘Barmer Applique’ is traditionally sewn on bedspreads of black and brown bases while the motifs are of natural scenes. In Rajasthan, women of 6 villages prepare these Appliqués. It takes about one month to prepare a complete bedspread.

The Barefoot College of Rajasthan teaches the ‘Tilonia Applique’ to the women and it is adapted from ‘Mandanas’, which are traditional patterns on floors in Rajasthan.

Making of Applique in Rajasthan
Applique work of Rajasthan is mainly done on stunning red, purple, yellow, black, green and white fabric. The base is prepared first in the square shape, rectangular and circle shape or even in oval forms sometimes. This works as the background for that art piece. The Applique motifs of contrasting colours are then cut into various shapes like that of animals,birds,flower, leaves, celestial bodies and geometric shapes. These variously shaped motifs are now stitched on the base cloths in artistic ways. Giving several folds makes raised motifs of the Applique. The intricate stitches such as bakhia, guntha, turpa, chikan and other embroidery techniques are the main elegant part of the Applique artwork. Recently, the use of small and bright mirror pieces has become popular in Rajasthan. The last work of the Applique is the stitching of the borders.

Family Involvement in Applique of Rajasthan
In Rajasthan, while preparing an Applique, the family gets involved. Those who are more experienced in the family do the intricate designs and the younger and less experience ones do the stitching of the borders and make the base clothes. The most eminent Rajasthani applique work is produced by the Marwari community. Due to the obscure workmanship, done by both men and women, it is believed that Rajasthani applique work of the Marwari community is influenced by the Egyptians.